HOLLYBURN SWEATER © Project Weekend Creative LTD. 2021

HOLLYBURN SWEATER PATTERN

A PROJECT WEEKEND BEGINNER SERIES PATTERN

Our Beginner series patterns are designed to guide you every step of the way and include easy to follow illustrations and how-to videos.   

Are you new to the world of sweater knitting or looking for a quick knit to add to your layering wardrobe? 
Then, say hello to your next knitting project!  

With a relaxed fit, hip-length hem, perfectly tapered sleeves, and ultra wearable bateau neckline, the Hollyburn Sweater is as cozy to wear as it is a joy to knit!

Easy to knit and simple to follow along, the Hollyburn Sweater pattern allows you to focus on learning a few cornerstone sweater knitting techniques like, adding simple shaping to knit panels,   picking up stitches and sewing invisible seams for professional quality finishes.

Our LOLL yarn features a special blend of Highland Wool and Alpaca fibers creating soft-as-a-kitten warmth and squishiness. Sustainably sourced and 100% naturally soft, (not chemically softened), LOLL is grown in the beautiful highlands of Peru and spun in a Fair Trade Certified facility.

With cashmere-like softness, LOLL  is not too chunky or hot, making it the perfect yarn for all your sweater projects. And, because it is naturally anti-itch, it's perfect for anyone who is sensitive to the itch of natural wool.

Our models' measurements are: Bust (34"), Hip (36"), Arm Length (30.5").
She is wearing a size SMALL.

SKILL LEVEL : BEGINNER

This pattern is designed for anyone who has completed a few learn-to-knit and beginner projects before and is comfortable casting-on, binding-off and knitting a knit stitch.  

TECHNIQUES YOU WILL LEARN

  • How to add simple shaping to a knit panel
  • How to evenly pick up stitches 
  • How to seam your knit panels together invisibly
  • Blocking your finished work 

TIME TO MAKE 

24 - 26 Hours

GAUGE

12 stitches in Garter (knit) stitch x 22 rows = 4” x 4” square 

PATTERN SIZE

This pattern includes instructions for 5 different sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL. This measurement chart will help you find the size that will best fit you.

HOLLYBURN SWEATER KIT

TOOLS REQUIRED

  • (XS: 6) (S:6) (M:7) (L:7) (XL:8) balls of Project Weekend LOLL yarn
  • 1 Pair of 9mm/US 13  32" Circular Needles (optional with kit purchase)
  • Hollyburn Sweater Pattern
  • 1 Knitters' Sewing Needle 
  • 10 Safety Pin / Stitch Markers
  • 1 "PROJECT WEEKEND X Me." Woven Label
  • 1 "Made For You" Makers Gift Hangtag
  • 1 Organic Cotton Project Bag
  • Measuring Tape (not included in kit)  (we have a printable option available under the "Tools"
           section in our Tutorials Library)
  • Scissors (not included in kit)

TECHNIQUE TUTORIAL VIDEOS & ILLUSTRATIONS

Not sure how to knit a specific technique? No worries, we've got your back! We've created videos and step-by-step illustrations for you to reference so your project won't miss a beat. We have conveniently inserted links for our tutorial videos throughout the entire pattern for you to easily reference and learn from. Happy Knitting!

PROJECT NOTES

Before you cast on stitches, take some time to read the pattern all the way through. It will help you understand the order of operations as well as highlight any techniques you may want to practice before you get into your actual project. 

We designed the Hollyburn Sweater to have a  looser tensioned knit stitch so that it will drape more beautifully over the body.  Therefore, this piece will hang roughly 2" longer on your body and sleeve than what the flat pattern measurements call for.   

The Hollyburn Sweater is knit in a garter (knit) stitch pattern and is made up of four panels. 

  • 1 Back Panel
  • 1 Front Panel
  • 2 Sleeve Panels

You will knit the back and front panels first, which you will then seam together at the shoulders. You will pick-up stitches perpendicularly along the side seam to knit the sleeve panels in a top down direction. Once all the knitting is complete, you will then close up the sweater by seaming together the side and underarm seams. 

HOW TO MEASURE YOUR KNIT PANELS

We will be using a larger size knitting needle for this project, therefore the garter stitch will be more relaxed and have some stretch and drape on the body. Extra care is required to measure your knit panels as this stretch can cause some variance in your measurements. It’s important to measure the panels when they are NOT stretched out. 

  • Always measure your knit panels on a flat surface.   
  • Once flat, gently pat the full panel into a relaxed shape by manipulating the panel dimensions inwards length-wise and width-wise to tighten up the garter stitch and to remove any stretch between the ridges.  
  • Only measure the panel in it’s smallest flat dimension. 

GARMENT FINISHED FLAT MEASUREMENTS

GAUGE SWATCH
WHAT IS IT & DO I REALLY NEED TO MAKE ONE?

A gauge swatch is a little test square of fabric that you knit before each project using the exact stitches indicated in the gauge tension call-out. Once complete, it will tell you if you are knitting too tight or too loose for the pattern that you are making. This is a great tool because it helps to make sure that what you are knitting will measure out perfectly to the pattern measurements and ultimately fit just right.

Gauge swatches do not take long to knit, yet a lot of people skip this process because they’re so excited to get into knitting their project.

Please learn from our experience.....there is nothing more frustrating than knitting someone a sweater only to realize at the end (and after many invested hours of knitting) that if we had only made a gauge swatch, our beautiful sweater wouldn’t have ended up fitting two sizes too small.  

GETTING GAUGE

The Hollyburn Sweater requires a 9mm sized knitting needle and the gauge is called out as:
12 stitches x 22 rows of garter (knit) stitch to achieve the right tension gauge for this project. 

 Not sure how to create a Gauge Tension Swatch? Come take a peek at our step-by-step tutorial

HOLLYBURN SWEATER PATTERN

PATTERN ABBREVIATIONS

K: A KNIT stitch (when there is a number beside the K (ex: K13) that means Knit 13 stitches.

K2tog: Knit two together, (Knit the next two stitches together as if they were one, a "right leaning" decrease of 1 stitch on your needle).

SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit (Slip 1 stitch, Slip 1 more stitch, Knit those two slipped stitches (through the back loop) as if they were one, (a "left leaning" decrease of 1 stitch on your needle). 

FRONT PANEL (MAKE 1)

STEP 1: Using the LONGTAIL CAST-ON METHOD, cast-on (XS:56, S:59, M:62, L:66, XL:71) stitches.

STEP 2: KNIT each row onwards for a total of (XS:99, S:102, M:105, L:107, XL:110) rows AND your work measures a total of (XS:18”, S:18.5”, M:19”, L:19.5”, XL:20”)  from the cast-on edge.

STEP 3: BIND-OFF all stitches. Part of this bind-off edge forms the visible part of the neckline opening, so keep it neat!

TIP: At some point mid-work, you will need to join in a new ball of yarn to continue knitting. A great seamless option, that does not require any weaving in of ends, is the MAGIC KNOT METHOD. When using the Magic Knot Method on a sweater, it's best practice to join the ball as close to  a side or underarm seam as possible so that if the Magic Knot were to find its way to the front side of your work, it won't easily be seen.  

BACK PANEL (MAKE 1)

The Back Panel is identical to the Front Panel.   Repeat the above instructions.

JOINING THE SHOULDERS

As both the front and back panels are identical and reversible, decide now which will be the RIGHT-SIDE front and the RIGHT-SIDE back of your sweater.

TIP: "RIGHT-SIDE” is the term used for the outside of your sweater. "WRONG SIDE" is the term used for the inside of your sweater.

STEP 1: Lay the panels on a flat surface with the right-sides facing up, and bind-off edges butting up against each other. Pat the panels into place so they both measure the correct finished measurements for the size you are knitting.

STEP 2: Thread a yarn tail approximately 20” in length through your sewing needle. Starting from a side edge, use the INVISIBLE HORIZONTAL SEAM FOR GARTER STITCH technique (see technique illustration below) to seam the two bind-off edges together, creating a shoulder seam that is (XS:5.25”, S:5.5”, M:5.75”, L:6.25”, XL:6.6”) in length. Secure the yarn tail by weaving in loose ends.

STEP 3: Repeat Step 2 for the opposite side to create the second shoulder seam.

You should now have a neck opening that measures (XS:8”, S:8.5”, M:9”, L:9.5”. XL:10.5”). 

A NOTE ABOUT THE NECKLINE OPENING: If, after knitting your sweater and fitting it for the first time, you find the neckline opening to be too wide and want to make it smaller, you can make this alteration by sewing up an inch (+) on each end of the neck opening.  

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

PREP FOR PICKING-UP STITCHES
We will be picking up stitches perpendicularly off the body panels to knit our sleeve panels from the top of the sleeve down to the cuff. First we will mark out where the sleeves need to be positioned on the body panels.

STEP 1: Lay the body panels out flat so the RIGHT-SIDE is now facing up.

STEP 2: Along one side edge, place a stitch marker at the shoulder seam end point. (You will need this marker to help measure out the sleeve panel).

STEP3: Measure out from each side of the stitch marker (XS:7.5”, S:8”, M:8.5”. L:9”, XL:9.5”) and place a stitch marker at each measurement point.

STEP 4: Remove the stitch marker that is marking the shoulder point, as you no longer need it.

The measurement between the two new stitch markers should be (XS:15”, S:16”, M:17, L:18”, XL:19”) and marks the space in which you will pick up stitches to start knitting the sleeve panel.  

PICKING UP STITCHES

(video tutorial How To Evenly Pick Up Stitches Within A Specific Area Of Work).

STEP 1: With "RIGHT SIDE" facing up, pick up (XS:45, S:48, M:51, L:54, XL:57) stitches evenly between the outer most stitch markers.

For example: If you need to pick up 54 stitches, and you have created 9 even spaces with your stitch markers, then you will pick up 6 stitches in each small section along the sleeve line. If the division does not round out evenly by the number of spaces you have created, for example: you need to pick up 57 stitches and you have 9 spaces, then you will pick up 6 stitches in each space for a total of 54 + 3 stitches added in. (Just add 1 extra stitch into 3 of the spaces along the sleeve line). 

KNITTING THE SLEEVE

STEP 2: Use the following pattern decrease instructions for your individual size. 

(video tutorials for decreasing techniques:  SSK & K2tog)

SIZE: XS

ROWS 1 TO 7: Knit all stitches

Row 8 (a decrease row): K1, K2tog, knit all stitches up to the last three, SSK, K1 (a row
decrease of 2 stitches)

Repeat the above 8 row pattern another 10 more times and you have 24 stitches remaining on your needle.

Knit another 5 rows.

You will now have knit a total of 94 rows (this includes your pick up stitch row) and your work measures 17” from the top sleeve stitch pick-up point.



SIZE: S

ROWS 1 TO 7: Knit all stitches

Row 8 (a decrease row): K1, K2tog, knit all stitches up to the last three, SSK, K1 (a row
decrease of 2 stitches)

Repeat the above 8 row pattern another 10 more times and you have 26 stitches remaining on your needle.

Knit another 5 rows.

You will now have knit a total of 94 rows (this includes your pick up stitch row) and your work measures 17” from the top sleeve stitch pick-up point.



SIZE: M

ROWS 1 TO 6: Knit all stitches

Row 7 (a decrease row): K1, K2tog, knit all stitches up to the last three, SSK, K1 (a row
decrease of 2 stitches)

Repeat the above 7 row pattern another 12 more times and you have 26 stitches remaining on your needle.

Knit another 2 rows.

You will now have knit a total of 94 rows (this includes your pick up stitch row) and your work measures 17” from the top sleeve stitch pick-up point.



SIZE: L

ROWS 1 TO 6: Knit all stitches

Row 7 (a decrease row): K1, K2tog, knit all stitches up to the last three, SSK, K1 (a row
decrease of 2 stitches)

Repeat the above 7 row pattern another 12 more times and you have 28 stitches remaining on your needle.

Knit another 2 rows.

You will now have knit a total of 94 rows (this includes your pick up stitch row) and your work measures 17” from the top sleeve stitch pick-up point.



SIZE: XL

ROWS 1 TO 5: Knit all stitches

Row 6 (a decrease row): K1, K2tog, knit all stitches up to the last three, SSK, K1 (a row
decrease of 2 stitches)

Repeat the above 7 row pattern another 14 more times and you have 30 stitches remaining on your needle.

Knit another 3 rows.

You will now have knit a total of 94 rows (this includes your pick up stitch row) and your work measures 17.125” from the top sleeve stitch pick-up point. 

ALL SIZES:

STEP 3: Once you have completed knitting the pattern decrease instructions for your size, BIND- OFF all stitches. This bind-off edge forms the edge of your cuff, so keep it neat!

SLEEVE #2: Repeat the above process to create the opposite sleeve panel.

PRO TIP: There is a quicker way to place the stitch markers for your second sleeve without all the hassle of measuring. You’ll use the body panel garter ridges and the first sleeve stitch markers as guides.

Choose a stitch marker from sleeve #1, run your finger along the garter ridge that it is attached to, and follow it along to the opposite side of the body panel and place a stitch maker along the opposite side edge. Repeat for all remaining stitch markers. You want these stitch markers to be at the same point on the opposite side of the body so that your sleeves look balanced and not lopsided. (Once you position the stitch markers for the 2nd sleeve, double check your measurements to make sure everything matches the dimensions listed in your pattern!)

CLOSING UP THE BODY AND SLEEVE 

STEP 1: With RIGHT SIDES facing out, position the sweater so that the left-side front and back
side and underarm seam is facing up.

STEP 2: Starting at the body hem, match up the front and back garter ridges attaching them together with your stitch markers. Match up the ridges every 4” to 5” all along the seam. 

STEP 3:  Cut a 30”+ yarn tail, and weave it through the sewing needle. Beginning at the hem, start to close up the side seam using the INVISIBLE VERTICAL SEAM FOR GARTER STITCH technique. Stop seaming at the armpit. Pass your yarn through to the inside of the sweater.

STEP 4: Measure out another 30”+ length yarn tail, and weave it through the sewing needle.  Beginning at the sleeve cuff hem this time, close up the underarm seam using the INVISIBLE VERTICAL SEAM FOR GARTER STITCH technique, seaming right up to the armpit (get right up to where you left off with the first seaming yarn). Pass this yarn through to the inside of the sweater.

TIP: Play with the tension of the seaming yarns along the side seams. You want to make sure you haven’t closed up your work too tightly. If it’s too tight, your side seam will lay shorter than the rest of your sweater. Give your sweater a little stretch lengthwise along the seam to make sure that the panels lay beautifully flat and are not rusched or bunched up along the seam.

STEP 5: On the inside of your work, securely tie the two yarn tail ends together with a knot and then WEAVE IN the loose yarn ends.

STEP 6: Repeat the above steps to close up the opposite side and underarm seam.

Once you’ve closed up the side seams, weave in any loose ends and proudly sew on your Project Weekend x ME. woven label at the inside center back neck.

Congratulations! You have completed the knitting portion of your sweater! 

BLOCKING YOUR SWEATER: A PROFESSIONAL QUALITY FINISHING TECHNIQUE

Do I need to Block?

Take a good look at your final knit piece with a critical eye. Do you notice any dimples or inconsistencies in the tension of your stitches? Are some of your panel measurements coming in a smidge long or short? Do the edges of your piece have a little wave and don't lay perfectly flat? The answer is, YES!

This is completely normal, it doesn't matter what level of knitter you are, no knit piece looks perfect right off the needles. Blocking can transform a beginner level piece to professional finished quality. In fact, expert knitters block all of their pieces after knitting them (trade secret: that's one of the reasons why their finished pieces always look SO GOOD!).

Read our blog on how to transform your sweater from looking homemade to ultra professional.  BLOCKING KNITS.

Psssst.....We LOVE seeing what you’ve made with our projects.
Tag us in your Instagram and Facebook posts!
@shopprojectweekend
#crafteddowntime 

Excited to learn more knitting techniques?  
Check out our full library of videos.

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