Our Ainsley Cardigan has a slouchy, oversized fit and a draped open-front silhouette. Accented with drop shouldered sleeves and an oversized rib trim,  it's a study in refined comfort and impeccable coziness.  

An easy-level knit that whips up in what feels like no time,  the Ainsley Cardigan has beautiful 1x2 ribbed details and an oversized statement collar that dramatically transforms what could have been a regular plain old cardigan, into the main topic of any conversation. 

Our LOLL yarn features a special blend of Merino Wool and Baby Alpaca fibers creating soft-as-a-kitten warmth and squishiness. Sustainably sourced and 100% naturally soft, (not chemically softened), LOLL is grown in the beautiful highlands of Peru and Argentina and spun in a Fair Trade Certified facility.

With cashmere-like softness, LOLL is not too chunky or hot, making it the perfect yarn for all your  sweater projects. And, because it is naturally anti-itch, it's perfect for anyone who is sensitive to the itch of natural wool.

Our models' measurements are:  Bust (34"), Hip (36"), Arm Length (30.5").
She is wearing a size SMALL.

SKILL LEVEL : EASY

Our Easy level patterns are great for those who are confident knitters and who have knit a variety of Beginner projects before. EASY projects might have simple increases and decreases for shaping, color work and knitting in the round techniques. 

TECHNIQUES YOU WILL LEARN

• How to knit simple increases and decreases to create shaping in a knit panel
• How to evenly pick up stitches 
• How to seam your knit panels together invisibly
• Blocking your finished work to achieve a professional level look

TIME TO MAKE 

24 - 26 Hours

GAUGE

6.5MM NEEDLE IN STOCKINETTE STITCH:
14 stitches x 19 rows = 4 x 4” (10cm x 10 cm) swatch

PATTERN SIZE

This pattern includes instructions for 5 different sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL. This measurement chart will help you find the size that will best fit you.

AINSLEY SWEATER KIT

TOOLS REQUIRED

• (XS: 7) (S:8) (M:8) (L:9) (XL:10) balls of Project Weekend LOLL
  
• 1 Pair of 6.5 mm/US 10.5, 30" Circular Needles (optional with kit purchase)  NOTE:  You can also use 7mm (US 10.75) sized needles to achieve the same gauge.   
• 1 Pair of 5mm/US 8 30"  Circular Needles (optional with kit purchase) 
• 1 Knitters' Sewing Needle 
  
• 10 Safety Pin / Stitch Markers
• 1 "PROJECT WEEKEND X Me." Woven Label
• 1 "Made For You" Makers Gift Hangtag
• 1 Organic Cotton Project Bag
• Measuring Tape (not included in kit) (we have a printable option available under the "Tools"    
         section in our Tutorials Library)
• Scissors (not included in kit)

TECHNIQUE TUTORIAL VIDEOS & ILLUSTRATIONS

Not sure how to knit a specific technique? No worries, we've got your back! We've created videos and step-by-step illustrations for you to reference so your project won't miss a beat. We have conveniently inserted links for our tutorial videos throughout the entire pattern for you to easily reference and learn from.  Happy Knitting!

IMPORTANT PATTERN NEEDLE SIZE UPDATE: 

Due to supplier shortages, we will no longer include a 7mm sized knitting needle in this kit. After testing, we've found that using a 6.5mm (US 10.5) sized needle achieves the exact same gauge as the 7mm needle size. Consequently, we've updated the knitting pattern to reflect this change. Therefore, it's important to note that these two sizes of needles can be used interchangeably, so if you've previously purchased this kit and are currently knitting the project with a 7mm needle, please continue using it. As always, when beginning any knitting project, start by knitting a test gauge swatch to ensure you're knitting to the correct gauge for the same measurements listed in the pattern.

PROJECT NOTES

Before you cast on stitches, take some time to read the pattern all the way through. It will help you understand the order of operations as well as highlight any techniques you may want to practice before you get into your actual project.

The Ainsley Cardigan is knit in a Stockinette Stitch Pattern, and has 1x2 rib patterned sleeve cuffs, body hem and front collar.  It is made up of five panels. 

• 1 Back Panel
  
• 2 Front Panel
• 2 Sleeve Panels

You will begin by knitting the back, front and sleeve panels individually.  You will then seam the sweater together using invisible seaming techniques.  Once assembled, you will then pick up stitches along the center front panels and around the back neckline to create the front collar trim.   

HOW TO MEASURE YOUR KNIT PANELS

Extra care is always needed when measuring knit panels as it is easy for them to stretch out and cause variances in your measurements. In order to achieve the measurements we have listed, and for your sweater to fit to our pattern spec, it’s important to measure the panels when they are NOT stretched out or scrunched up on your needles. 

• Always measure your knit panels on a flat surface.   
  
• Once flat, gently pat the full panel inwards length-wise and width-wise to tighten up the stitches and to remove any stretch between the stitches.  
  

GARMENT FINISHED FLAT MEASUREMENTS

GAUGE SWATCH
WHAT IS IT & DO I REALLY NEED TO MAKE ONE?

If you are new to making gauge swatches, come take a peek at our  Step-by-Step Tutorial.  

A gauge swatch is a little test square of fabric that you knit before each project using the exact stitches indicated in the gauge tension call-out. Once complete, it will tell you if you are knitting too tight or too loose for the pattern that you are making. This is a great tool because it helps to make sure that what you are knitting will measure out perfectly to the pattern measurements and ultimately fit just right.

Gauge swatches do not take long to knit, yet a lot of people skip this process because they’re so excited to get into knitting their project.

Please learn from our experience.....there is nothing more frustrating than knitting someone a sweater only to realize at the end (and after many invested hours of knitting) that if we had only made a gauge swatch, our beautiful sweater wouldn’t have ended up fitting two sizes too small.  

PATTERN ABBREVIATIONS

K: A Knit stitch (when there is a number beside the K (ex: K13) that means Knit 13 stitches

P: A Purl stitch (when there is a number beside the P (ex: P24) that means Purl 24 stitches

(RS): The "Right Side" of your work (for this pattern, the (RS) is the outside of your sweater)

(WS): The "Wrong Side" of your work (for this pattern, the (WS) is the the inside of your sweater)

P2tog: Purl 2, together (Purl the next two stitches together as one, resulting in a decrease of 1 stitch on your needle)

KFB: Knit, Front, Back (Knit into the front and the back of the same stitch, resulting in an increase of 1 stitch on your needle)

PBF: Purl, Back, Front (Purl through the back and through the front of the same stitch, resulting in an increase of 1 stitch on your needle)

REPEAT FROM *: repeat all that comes after the * in the same order.  Two types of "repeat from" instructions include repeat from * to the end of the row", or "repeat from * a certain number of times". 

 Example 1: 
*K1, P2 repeat from * to the end of row
(this instruction is telling you to Knit 1, Purl 2 and keep repeating K1, P2 over and over until you finish the row.

Example 2:
P4, *P3, P2tog, repeat from * another 17 more times, then P3
(this instruction is telling you to first Purl 4 stitches, then Purl the next 3, then Purl the next  2 stitches together. You will then repeat the instructions from the * which is Purl 3, Purl 2 together repeat this combination another 17 more times. Once you are done, you should have 3 stitches left on your needle, which you will then, per the last instruction, Purl 3.

AINSLEY SWEATER PATTERN

BACK PANEL (MAKE 1)

With 5MM needles, Cast-on (XS: 87, S:92, M:97, L:105, XL:114) stitches using THE LONGTAIL CAST-ON METHOD 

CREATING THE 1X2 RIB HEM:

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZES EXTRA SMALL, LARGE & EXTRA LARGE:
• Row 1 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to the end of row
• Row 2 (WS): *K2, P1 repeat from * to the end of row.
 Repeat the above two rows 8 more times, 
Then:
• Row 17 (RS) : *K1, P2 repeat from * to the end of row, your work should measure 3" from Cast-On edge.

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE SMALL:
• Row 1 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to last 2 stitches, then K1, P1.
• Row 2 (WS): K1, P1 *K2, P1 repeat from * to the end of row.
Repeat the above two rows 8 more times, 
Then:
• Row 17 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to last 2 stitches, then K1, P1, work should measure 3" from Cast-On edge.

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE MEDIUM:
• Row 1 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to last stitch, then K1.
• Row 2 (WS): P1 *K2, P1 repeat from * to the end of row.
Repeat the above two rows 8 more times, 
Then:
• Row 17 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to last  stitch, then K1, work should measure 3" from Cast-On edge.

COMPLETING THE BACK PANEL 

ALL SIZES:
For the next row, begin knitting with your 6.5mm Needles, you will complete the rest of the back panel with these needles.

STITCH DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE EXTRA SMALL:
• Row 18  (WS) decrease row: P6, *P3, P2tog, repeat from * another 14 more times, then P6 (a decrease of 15 stitches, you should have 72 stitches on needle at end of this row).


STITCH DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE SMALL:
• Row 18 (WS) decrease row: P2, *P3, P2tog, repeat from * another 16 more times, then P5 (a decrease of 17 stitches, you should have 75 stitches on needle at end of this row).


STITCH DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE MEDIUM:
• Row 18 (WS) decrease row: P4, *P3, P2tog, repeat from * another 17 more times, then P3 (a decrease of 18 stitches, you should have 79 stitches on needle at end of this row).


STITCH DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE LARGE:
• Row 18 (WS) decrease row: *P3, P2tog, repeat from * to the end of the row  (a decrease of 21 stitches, you should have 84 stitches on needle at end of this row).


STITCH DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE EXTRA LARGE:
• Row 18 (WS) decrease row: P9, *P2, P2tog, repeat from * another 23 more times, then P9 (a decrease of 24 stitches, you should have 90 stitches on needle at end of this row).


ONCE DECREASE INSTRUCTIONS ARE COMPLETE:
ALL SIZES:
• Row 19  (RS) : Knit all stitches.
• Row 20 (WS) : Purl all stitches.
Continue in the above 2 row stockinette stitch pattern for another  (XS: 99, S:102, M:104, L:106, XL: 109) rows AND your work measures (XS: 24.5", S:25", M:25.5", L:26", XL: 26.5")  from cast-on edge.

Once you reach final measurements, BIND-OFF all stitches loosely. 

TIP: At some point mid-work, you will need to join in a new ball of yarn to continue knitting. A great seamless option, that does not require any weaving in of ends, is the MAGIC KNOT METHOD. When using the Magic Knot Method on a sweater, it's best practice to join the ball as close to a side or underarm seam as possible so that if the Magic Knot were to work its way to the front of your work it won't easily be seen.

FRONT SIDE PANEL (MAKE 2)

With 5MM needles, Cast-On (XS: 9, S:12, M:13, L:17, XL: 21)  stitches using THE LONGTAIL CAST-ON METHOD.

CREATING THE 1X2 RIB HEM

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZES EXTRA SMALL, SMALL, EXTRA LARGE:
• Row 1 (RS): P1, *K1, P2 repeat from * to the last two stitches, then K1, P1
• Row 2 (WS): K1, *P1, *K2 repeat from * to the last two stitches, then P1, K1
Repeat the above two rows 8 more times, 
Then:
• Row 17 (RS) : P1, *K1, P2 repeat from * to the last two stitches, then K1, P1, your work should measure 3" from Cast-On edge.

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE MEDIUM:
• Row 1 (RS): P1, *K1, P2 repeat from * to end of the row.
• Row 2 (WS): *K2, P1 , repeat from * to the last stitch, then K1.
Repeat the above two rows 8 more times, 
Then:
• Row 17 (RS): P1, *K1, P2 repeat from * to end of the row, your work should measure 3" from Cast-On edge.

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE LARGE:
• Row 1 (RS): P1, K1 *P2, K1, repeat from * to the end of the row
• Row 2 (WS):*P1, K2,  repeat from * to the last stitch 2 stitches, then P1, K1
Repeat the above two rows 8 more times, 
Then:
 • Row 17(RS) : P1, *K1, P2, repeat from * to the last stitch, then K1

COMPLETING THE FRONT PANEL 

ALL SIZES:
For the next row, begin knitting with your 6.5mm Needles, you will complete the rest of the back panel with these needles.
• Row 18 (WS): Purl all stitches

FRONT SIDE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE EXTRA SMALL:
• Row 19 (RS) increase row: K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1, KFB, K1 (an increase of 4 stitches, for a total of 13 stitches on your needle).

FRONT SIDE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE SMALL:
• Row 19 (RS) increase row: K1, KFB, K3, KFB, K4, KFB, K1 (an increase of 3 stitches, for a total of 15 stitches on your needle).

FRONT SIDE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE MEDIUM:
• Row 19 (RS) increase row: K1, KFB, K4, KFB, K4, KFB, K1 (an increase of 3 stitches, for a total of 16 stitches on your needle).

FRONT SIDE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE LARGE:
• Row 19 (RS) increase row: K8, KFB, K8 (an increase of 1 stitch, for a total of 18 stitches on your needle).

FRONT SIDE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE EXTRA LARGE:
• Row 19 (RS) increase row:  Knit all stitches, no increase required.

ONCE INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS ARE COMPLETE:
ALL SIZES: 
• Row 20 (WS) : Purl all stitches.
• Row 21 (RS) : Knit all stitches.
Continue in the above 2 row stockinette stitch pattern for another (XS:98, S:101, M:103", L:105, XL: 108) rows AND your work measures (XS: 24.5", S:25", M:25.5", L:26", XL: 26.5")  from cast-on edge. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: Once you reach your final measurement, count how many rows you have created.  Make sure this number matches the amount of rows you knit for the back body panel length. If you need to add or delete a couple rows to match up the number, now is the time to do so.   Later on, when you go to seam up the side seams of your sweater, you will be matching up these back and front body knit rows. If they don't match in number, you risk having a side seam that won't lay nice and flat.  

Once you reach the final measurements of your front panel, BIND-OFF all stitches loosely.

SLEEVE (MAKE 2) 

With 5MM needles, Cast-On (XS: 42, S:45, M:45, L:47, XL: 50)  stitches using THE LONGTAIL CAST-ON METHOD.

CREATING THE 1X2 RIB HEM

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZES EXTRA SMALL, SMALL, MEDIUM:
• Row 1 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to the end of row.
• Row 2 (WS): *K2, P1 repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the above two rows another 11 more times for a total of 24 rows, 
Then:
• Row 25 (RS) increase row: *K1, PBF, P1 repeat from * to end to the row, an increase of XS:14, S:15, M:15) stitches. You should have a total of (XS:56, S:60, M:60) stitches on your needle and your work should measure 4.5” from cast-on edge.

RIB INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE LARGE & EXTRA LARGE:
• Row 1 (RS): *K1, P2 repeat from * to the last two stitches, then K1, P1
• Row 2 (WS): K1, P1, *K2, P1 repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat the above two rows another 11 more times for a total of 24 rows, 
Then:
• Row 25 (RS) increase row: *K1, PBF, P1 repeat from * to last two stitches, then, K1, P1,  an increase of L:15, xl:16) stitches. You should have a total of (L:62, XL:63) stitches on your needle and your work should measure 4.5” from cast-on edge.

COMPLETING THE SLEEVE PANEL

ALL SIZES:
Switch to 6.5mm needle, you will knit the rest of the sleeve panel with this needle.
• Row 26 (WS): Purl all stitches.

SLEEVE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE EXTRA SMALL:
• Row 27 (RS) an increase row: K7, KFB, K13, KFB, K13, KFB, K13, KFB, K6 (an increase of 4 stitches, you should have a total of 60 stitches on your needle).

SLEEVE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE SMALL:
• Row 27 (RS) an increase row: K7, KFB, K22, KFB, K21, KFB, K7 (an increase of 3 stitches, you should have a total of 63 stitches on your needle).

SLEEVE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE MEDIUM:
• Row 27 (RS) an increase row: K2, *K7, KFB repeat from * another 6 times, then K2 (an increase of 7 stitches, you should have a total of 67 stitches on your needle).

SLEEVE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE LARGE:
• Row 27 (RS) an increase row: *K6, KFB repeat from * another 7 times, then K6 (an increase of 8 stitches, you should have a total of 70 stitches on your needle).

SLEEVE PANEL INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SIZE EXTRA LARGE:
• Row 27 (RS) an increase row: K2, *K4, KFB repeat from * another 10 times, then K6 (an increase of 11 stitches, you should have a total of 74 stitches on your needle).

ONCE INCREASE INSTRUCTIONS ARE COMPLETE:
ALL SIZES:
• Row 28 (WS) : Purl all stitches.
• Row 29 (RS) : Knit all stitches
Continue in the above 2 row stockinette stitch pattern for another (XS:66, S:67, M:67, L:67, XL: 66) AND your work measures  (XS: 19.25", S:19.5", M:19.5", L:19.5", XL: 19.25") from cast-on edge.

Once you reach the final measurements, BIND-OFF all stitches loosely.

LET'S BLOCK IT!

Stockinette stitch, by nature of it's knit structure, curls inwards upon itself making it a real hot mess to line up edge stitches to seam your panels together.  You can easily flatten these panels by Spray or Steam Blocking them before you continue.   It's a process that takes about a half day total, but it eliminates so many headaches and directly improves the overall finished look of your sweater.  

Want to know more about blocking?  Read our blog for step-by-steps on  Blocking Your Knits. 

FINISHED PANEL BLOCKED MEASUREMENTS

SEAMING THE SHOULDERS

Place the 2 FRONT BODY and 1 BACK BODY panels flat on a surface with (RS) facing up. With Bind-Off edges touching, match up the front and back panel side edges. 

 Thread a length of yarn onto your knitter's sewing needle, and with bind-off stitches matched up stitch for stitch, seam the left front and left back panels together at the shoulder line using the INVISIBLE SEAM FOR HORIZONTAL STOCKINETTE STITCH.

Once complete, repeat the same process for the opposite right side panel pieces. 

SEAMING THE SLEEVES TO THE BODY

Lay your sweater flat on a table with (RS) facing up. Fold a sleeve lengthwise to find the middle point of the sleeve panel along the shoulder line.  Match that sleeve middle point up with the  sweater shoulder seam you just seamed together and use a pin/stitch marker to anchor it in place. 

 From the safety pin/stitch marker,  measure out each side from the pin (XS:8.5", S:9", M:9.5", L:10", XL:10.5")  and use a pin to anchor each end of your sleeve to your sweater side seam.  The distance between these two outer stitch markers should measure  (XS:17", S:18", M:19", L:20", XL:21").  

Lastly, check that you have the same total number of rows counted up from the bottom hem point of both your front and back panels to the outer sleeve points. This is a nice item to check as you will be matching these rows up (row for row) to create your side seams.  If you are off by a row or two, now is the time to adjust these outer sleeve pin points to achieve an equal number.  

SEAMING THE SLEEVES TO THE BODY

Thread a long length of yarn onto your knitters' sewing needle and begin seaming your sleeve panel to the sweater body using the PERPENDICULAR INVISIBLE SEAM TECHNIQUE FOR STOCKINETTE STITCH.  

SEAMING THE SIDESEAMS TOGETHER

With (RS) facing up, match up the front and back panels row for row along the side seam as well as along the underarm seam. Make sure the ribbing stitches of the front and back body panels and the sleeve cuffs match up row for row and that the sleeve underarm points match together.   Use your safety pins to keep your rows matched up to make the seaming process easier.   

Use the INVISIBLE SEAM FOR VERTICAL STOCKINETTE STITCH to seam the panels together to close up your sweater. 

ADDING THE COLLAR RIB TRIM

We will now be picking up stitches along both front panels and back neckline to create the center front collar trim.  If you are new to this technique, come take a peek at our tutorial PICKING UP STITCHES.  (skip ahead in the video to  6:56​ min. How To Pick Up Stitches Perpendicularly Along A Side Edge)

Using the 5mm NEEDLE and with the  (RS) FACING UP, you will begin at the RIGHT FRONT PANEL hem stitch. Pick up stitches in multiples of 3+1 along the center front opening, around the back neckline and then back down the opposite center front opening in the following pattern:

Right Front Opening: Pick up 3 stitches out of every 4 (skip over the 4th stitch).

Shoulder Seamlines: Pick up a stitch in the middle of each of the shoulder seams.

Back Neckline: Pick up a stitch in every stitch along the back neckline (do not skip any stitches).

Left Front Opening: Pick up 3 stitches out of every 4 (skip over the 4th stitch).

PICKING UP STITCHES FAQ's:

WHAT DOES "PICK UP IN MULITPLES OF 3+1" MEAN?
Our rib pattern is a 1x2 rib pattern (essentially a repeat of 3 stitches over and over). We want for this pattern to look symmetrical at the base of our hemline, therefore, we want the two stitches that are located at the very base of our hem to be the same. In this circumstance, we want both of them to be a KNIT stitch. Therefore, you need to have total number of stitches picked up that equal to multiples of 3 +1. (that +1 is the extra stitch you add in for the rib pattern symmetry of that extra KNIT stitch). So, for example, if you pick up enough stitches for there to be 228 stitches (that's a number evenly multiplied by 3, therefore you should pick up 228 +1 stitches.   

WHAT DOES "PICK UP 3 STITCHES OUT OF EVERY 4"  MEAN?
The Knit stitches we are picking up will be running perpendicularly to the knit stitches on the front panel.  KNIT stitches are wider than they are tall so we need to accommodate for that difference to avoid having a puckered cardigan collar rib. The pattern for picking up your stitches along the front panels will be, pick up three stitches, then skip over one stitch, then pick up three, then skip over one stitch, over and over.  

WHY DO I PICK UP INTO EVERY STITCH ALONG THE BACK NECKLINE?
Your collar knit stitches will be facing the same direction (vertical) as your back panel knit stitches therefore they will be the same size as the stitches you are picking up into.  So, no need to adjust for any variance in stitch size here, the stitches will lay perfectly flat and not stretched out if you pick up into every stitch along the back neckline.  

CREATING THE RIB COLLAR
• Row 1  (WS) (starting at left side hem): P1, *K2, P1  repeat from * to last stitch
• Row 2 (RS)  (starting at right side hem): K1 *P2, K1 repeat from * to last stitch

Continue in the above 1x2 rib pattern until your work measures 4.5” from the point where you picked up stitches. 

NOTE:  The front opening of this cardigan is intentionally designed to remain open, creating a stylish vertical line that extends down each side of the neck and shoulder area. Based on valuable feedback from our customers, some have expressed a desire for  a modified version of this  design with a broader collar to enhance coverage over the front of the body. This can be easily achieved by increasing the depth of the collar  4.5" to a finished 6" or  even up to 8" . Depending on the amount  of yarn remaining from your last ball, you might have sufficient material to expand the collar width. However, if additional width is desired, you will need to purchase another yarn ball to ensure your preferred outcome.

Once the knitted width is complete, bind off loosely while staying in your 1x2 rib pattern,  (binding off in pattern means, in your bind-off row, continue your 1x2 rib pattern of knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches while you are binding-off).  

NOTE:  Binding off "in pattern" will allow your rib to remain stretchy and lay flat

FINISHING YOUR SWEATER

Weave in any loose ends and proudly sew on your Project Weekend x ME. woven label!  

We highly recommend giving your Ainsley Sweater a WET BLOCK.  It will instantly transform your piece from looking homemade to ultra professional.  It will even out any inconsistencies in you stitch tension, it will set your finished sweater measurements and it will relax your rib collar trim to lay nice and flush with your front panels.  

We have step-by-step Wet Blocking instructions available in our blog BLOCKING YOUR KNITS.

Here is an example of what our photo sample looked like right off the needles and the transformation after blocking. Look at how uptight that collar trim was!  You can see how beautifully it relaxed and set after blocking.   Blocking helped it achieve a more uniform tension that matches the front panels so it no longer pulls the whole sweater up at the center front.  

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Tag us in your Instagram and Facebook posts!
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Excited to learn more knitting techniques?  
Check out our full library of videos.

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